Right! Let’s continue on with weathering, I think I have as much picture to show(again…) But I will assist with my text as good as possible.
First of all, forget the casual GM leg back there. Too pale, not dirty enough and…. Oh right, Gyan… I first dilute some Tamiya enamels dark grey to do a wash to bring down the colour tone. After that, I used brown to highlight some areas. When they’re dry enough, I used a paint brush moistened with enamel thinners to li~~~~ghtly brush on the kit. It helps creating water streaks and brown rust streaks.
On the knee cap, I use a fine make up sponge to stipple enamel dark grey. Paring with ve~~~~~ry light brushing with thinner. Starting to look okay aye?
I repeated those steps a few times, same technique, same place, same tools. Remember, weathering is about “building up”.
I get to put water decals on the first time, it certainly can be tricky. However, if you messed up it’s all good, you can cover it with weathering! I let it dry for a while and then scratch the surface lightly with hobby knife. I used MG Guntank water decal by the way. Nice decoration on the shoulder 😀
Weathering is a very repetitive job, here I sponge on some dark grey colour on the arms edges. I darkened it more on the inside because realistically there will be more water marks and such. It also help with the shading.
Now to the rusts, enamel flat brown is my favourite here. Apply it with a sponge on the edges, more on top and not so much on the way down. Just imagine how the water and rust runs down. Used thinner to create some streaking effects there. I then masked the forearm as I want more rust on the wrist, and don’t want to mess up and previous weathering.
Once again, repeat the process and it will get you… here! More dark colour weathering near anywhere doesn’t see the sun.
With light colour part, weather with dark colour. But when it comes to dark colour pieces you go light colours. So here on the chest (hehe) I used sand brown instead of brown for general washing and streaks. Tamiya brown panel lining liquid is used in the vents, they do a lot more than just panel lining! So here is a comparison of the weathering chest, half weathered waist, and a non-weathered head. See the difference?
Weathering is not just about making it dirty, but making it “dirty, but enhancing the details”. Washed and cleaned up the chest details here, you can clearly see the edges and the little panel in the middle of the chest.
After those, I sponged on more grey and brown on the corners and edges. One more trick, I used pencil to run the edges for shades. You may think it is not much, but trust me, it helps a lot!
Now move on to the shield, I tried something different and painted the rust coat first and then sponge on a different brown. Here’s the fun part, I sprayed Vallejo chipping medium on top of the rust coat and let it dry. Then sprayed on the base colour, I used Tamiya acrylic, not sure if oil based colour will make any different. Ok ok, here’s the real fun part. Wet a brush with water and start brushing on the painted piece. The water will reactivate the chipping medium and allow you to show the rust base coat. I used a small toothpick and brush for this part. Doesn’t it look like a cookie?
Gyan’s sword is supposed to be beam weapon, so no need to weather a beam(?). So here I tried to paint it like those sample beam sabers on the Gunpla box. Three shades of yellow and flat white, should be pretty eye catchy on a dirty old Gyan.
Takoya’s cheap alternative of the day:
Is weathering powder too hard to find for you? Do you have a drug store around you? No matter your answer is yea or no, this should help. Go get a cheap matte eyeshadow, and use it as weathering powder! Make sure it is matte unless your Gunpla is going clubbing. (Item is not sponsored)
So here is almost all the technique I used for the Gyan! Thank you and see you on the next post!